Unveiling Moroccan Heritage: John Singer Sargent's Incensing the Veil

While perusing the Blue Room at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum after starting my internship, I encountered a captivating watercolor entitled Incensing the Veil by John Singer Sargent. The work is described as depicting a North African woman, but the intricate jewelry adorning the subject caught my eye as unmistakably Moroccan. I too am Moroccan by origin, and my experiences with art often serve as a conduit between my current reality and the rich tapestry of my heritage.

The jewelry, known as tazarzit in the Tamazight language native to North Africa, is a traditional Moroccan accessory with a variety of styles and designs, often serving as a pin. Notably, in certain regions, the orientation of the triangle on the tazarzit signifies the wearer's marital status. In further examining the painting, I noticed an array of details connected to Moroccan culture. The subject's attire resembles a tamelhafa or haik, the outdoor garment commonly worn by Moroccan women, and the use of white fabric situates the scene in the northern reaches of Morocco.

Moreover, the setting depicted in the painting bears a striking resemblance to a traditional Moroccan Riad, characterized by intricately tiled floors and a horseshoe-shaped entrance. These architectural nuances transport me back to the courtyards of my grandmother's home, echoing stories and settings of generations past. 

Delving into John Singer Sargent's correspondence, I uncovered his profound fascination with Moroccan culture during his sojourns in Tangier in 1880 and 1895. His vivid descriptions of the bustling streets and Moorish architecture evoke a sense of nostalgia for the sights and sounds of my homeland.

My research led me to the Clark Art Institute, where Sargent’s oil painting Fumée d'ambre gris resides. Though portraying the same subject and composition as the Gardner’s watercolor, the painting is much larger and includes some additional details.

In the oil painting, the woman's nails are tinted in a distinct orange hue, characteristic of henna leaves crushed and diluted with water and other ingredients. This practice, common in Moroccan culture, serves both beauty and health purposes. For example, henna can be applied on the head to bring down a fever and purify the scalp and can be used to protect the skin from sun damage and aging. The rug in the oil painting also appears to be dyed with henna, and a similar pigment can be seen in the Gardner watercolor. The orange-reddish tint on the figure’s lips suggests a stain of Moroccan siwak derived from walnut tree bark and used for teeth cleaning. She is also shown wearing kohl powder to highlight her eyes and eyebrows, reflecting enduring beauty standards, including the appreciation of a unibrow in some Moroccan regions. Her Moroccan identity is further established by the piece of fabric around her neck, a litham, used outdoors to cover the face.

Despite Sargent's obvious admiration for Moroccan culture, his perspective as an outsider may have influenced his depictions of his subjects. His correspondence reveals that he had limited interactions with the local populace. Some sources suggest that the model he used for the painting was more likely of Jewish descent than Muslim, underscoring the complexities of cultural representation in art. Yet, amid the discourse surrounding authenticity, Incensing the Veil stands as a testament to the beauty and resilience of Moroccan culture. Unlike many Orientalist paintings of the era, which often exoticized and misrepresented the East, Sargent's work captures a fleeting moment of everyday life with remarkable accuracy. 

The portrayal of a Moroccan woman permeating her veil with incense resonates deeply with me, reflecting a ritual that persists through time. In Moroccan tradition, the application of perfume before venturing out is akin to adorning oneself with armor, enhancing confidence and allure. This simple act serves as a poignant reminder of the traditions that bind us to our roots. Incensing the Veil offers a rare portrayal of authentic Moroccan culture. As a Moroccan woman, I find solace in knowing that my heritage is not merely a subject of fascination but a wellspring of inspiration for artists like John Singer Sargent. Through his astute observation and meticulous craftsmanship, Sargent has immortalized an ordinary, yet profound moment in time.