The gems set on the two identical bazubands, or armlets, are a variation of the traditional Indian talisman, the navaratna. This Sanskrit term means “nine gems,” which represent the nine planets of Hindu astrology. However, these bazubands are set with eleven gems: coral, pearl, turquoise, a yellow stone, sapphire, diamond, ruby, emerald, a pink gem, moonstone, and garnet.¹ Turquoise is not one of the traditional stones but has been added to the array, perhaps because it became fashionable in the Victorian period. The faceting of some of the gems also points to a nineteenth-century date. Some are cabochons, while others are cut according to Indian taste with few, unsymmetrical facets. However, the large, pale yellow diamonds are cut symmetrically in Western style.

The armlets were bought from [A. N.] Jacob for $750. He claimed that they had once belonged to the “queen of Delhi” and were seized by British soldiers during the Mutiny of 1857.² This is undoubtedly a reference to Zinat Mahal, the favorite wife of the last Mughal emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar II (r. 1838–58), who accompanied him in exile to Rangoon. Although the provenance cannot be confirmed, the size of the gems nevertheless suggests the objects belonged to a person of high rank.

The large gems are set into gold bezels with a lac core. Each is surrounded by four smaller gems of the same type. On the upper sides the gold is engraved with petal motifs, while underneath and on the sides champlevé enamel was used. Within a red circle, a pair of herons stand in a stream of water facing each other. Champlevé enamel is typical of the period, but the quality indicates a workshop in Jaipur in Rajasthan, then one of the most reputable jewelry production centers. On each armlet, the enameled decoration of the central plaques (those set with a diamond) differs from the rest: the circle is a stylized lotus flower with red petals within a frame of minute red and green squares. The colors employed on the enamels are fairly standard: translucent red, green, yellow, dark blue, and opaque white. The bazubands would have been attached to the arm with the gilt silk cords, which each have conical finials ornamented with rows of seed pearls.

¹ Identified by the gemologist Daniel R. Spirer using refractive indices and microscopic analysis.

² Jacob wrote to Jack Gardner about their purchases (n.d.):
The Armlets are belong to the Queen of Delhi and they are set with the 12 charms of gems viz. coral, pearl, zircon, turquoise, cats’ eye, spenel, emerald, ruby, diamond, sapphire, yellow ruby, and byrel. These gems corispond with the 12 signs of the zodiac . . . These armlets were taken from the King’s palace Dehli during the time of the Mutiny by the British soldiers and were auctioned by Colonel Innes the prize agent and were bought by another officer who kept them 22 years during his life after his death his widdow sold them to me with some other books and chatles.

Source: Pedro Moura Carvalho, “Jewelry and Objects from India,” in Journeys East: Isabella Stewart Gardner and Asia, edited by Alan Chong and Noriko Murai (Boston: ISGM and Gutenberg Periscope, 2009): 458-459.